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Trebes & Le Canal du Midi

Posted on May 29, 2012August 6, 2024 by Mary

Bon Soir Mes Amies,

It is very late and yesterday my camera broke, yes, really broke, so I did my best with the iPhone which really does take very good photos but not so good at close-ups and a bit more difficult in bright lights. This morning I found a Monde (world) camera shop in the bastide and a very nice gentleman fiddled with mon camera for 10 minutes before declaring it broken. The nearest repair? Toulouse or Montpellier. This was just not going to work. Not with four women trying to coordinate our voiture (car) and me having 2 more weeks here sans camera. So I went next door to prendre un café while pondering my dilemma. While paying my bill, I noticed an approachable French man and did not miss the opportunity to ask him in my weak French where I could purchase a new camera. He flashed a smile with twinkling eyes and said “Geant” near the airport. Of course, I knew the road for we had recently become lost and ended up at the airport and I noticed this giant warehouse, Costo/Target-type store across the street. Geant, as I now know it, carries everything from apples to diapers, and bikinis to cameras. There is even a wine bar and beer brassière. Take a hint Target. So, today, my friend Bonnie and I traveled the two miles out of Carcassonne to find Geant and of course missed the exit – but – we did see the sign for Trebes, a small ville on the Canal du Midi we were looking for yesterday and could not find. Deciding this was fate, we took the road to Trebes and were there within ten minutes. Trebes is a lovely ville. Small, quaint, not touristy, and a hub for the folks who rent boats on the Canal du Midi.

 

It was a very warm day. We walked along the Canal, found lots of historic buildings, and visited a sweet church, built in the 1600s. While enjoying a refreshing Citron Presse at a café on the water, I noticed two large otter-like creatures swimming upstream. “Bonnie,” I cried, “Look at the river otters!” Much to my surprise, the server approached me with a giggle and said, “Those are not otters, they are rats.” I had never, ever seen a rat this large – really- about 20 pounds with a very long tail I noticed the next time they swam past us. The things you learn every day!

 

Our day finished off with a late dinner at Le Delices de Tetouan, the Moroccan restaurant I talked about in an earlier blog. The owner was delighted to see us again and brought us jugs of local wine to start our dining experience. Three of us ordered the Tagine and one ordered the Couscous. As our meal was being prepared by Fatima, Nabil’s wife, I asked permission to venture into the kitchen to see how the tagine was made.

 

As I entered her tiny space, I gasped out loud as I viewed her inserting a plate of food into a microwave. She had not one, but two microwaves she was working with for our dinners. Disappointed, I still showed enthusiasm for her cooking, knowing she was doing the best she could to make a living and raise three young children.

Our food was unexpectedly good and pleasingly presented. The vegetable couscous was tasty but not extraordinary.

I loved the colorful tagine “hats” the food is cooked in.

Bonnie’s Tagine was delicious featuring apricots, cinnamon, and honey. My tagine had my favorite flavors of confit of lemon and olives. I do love the Mediterranean food.

 

Yes, I did get a new camera at Geant. The selection was limited but they did have quality cameras to choose from. My new Samsung is small and compact with a touch screen on the viewfinder, like an iPhone. Pretty cool. So no more excuse for the lack of photos. I am now a crazed camera-waving woman shooting here and there and everywhere.

Tomorrow I’ll share market photos. Also, I am invited back to Le Sixieme Sens in the afternoon to view the technique for making Bourride. For now, Merci and Bon Nuit!

Dinner in a Cave

Posted on May 28, 2012May 13, 2024 by Mary

 

Love the ambiance!

Bonjour mes amies! To celebrate my friend, Liz’s birthday, we dined in a tiny restaurant with a downstairs cave or wine cellar. So intimate, and uplit to create a warm glow, Le Sixieme Sens was about to become one of my most memorable meals ever. The combination of rustic stone, bright green place settings, and buddas somehow all work together to create an ambiance that I had never experienced before.

Our server, Sebastian, a quiet gentleman with a wry smile, answered our questions and guided us through the menu. We began with a Kir Royale, champagne, and cassis, served with salted peanuts and pistachios. Sebastian suggested we try a local red wine, from Carcassonne, a 2008 Chateau Sesguieres Cabardes, soft with tones of dark berries.

I chose the Le Menu, meaning a meal at a fixed price (prix fixe) which includes three courses. The first course was a salade of duck breast with a slice of foie gras ( I know, it is so politically incorrect to eat this stuff) but we are in France and the French are proud of their traditions. I had not eaten foie gras for 33 years and enjoyed every bite of this creamy pate.

The main course consisted of a trio of seafood, prawns, salmon, and a local seabass-type fish, lightly grilled with a parsley butter sauce and served with angel hair pasta.

My companions all had the beef tenderloin with red wine or mushroom sauce. Enough for three hungry people!

Dessert was a slice of one of my French favorites, Tarte Tatin, a rustic caramelized apple tart with a flaky puff pastry crust. This was so charmingly served with a small glass jar of creamy, cold, intensely flavored vanilla ice cream.

We profusely thanked our host, Lionel, who is the chef and owner of Le Sixieme Sens. He gave us all kisses and seemed pleased we had such a fabulous experience. Because the food was so spectacular, he offered to make us a special dinner of our request later on this week. We promised we would do some research and come up with something delicious and challenging for him to make. What will he create? Stay tuned!

Au Revoir!

Mary

Bonjour!

Posted on May 27, 2012May 13, 2024 by Mary
View of the old from the new.

The seemingly endless jet lag and lack of wifi until today have stalled this blog – but not for long! I am still figuring out how to add the correct accent marks to the French words so please forgive their absence for now.

We arrived in Toulouse Friday night, and then traveled to Carcassonne Saturday afternoon. This medieval ville is a fortified French town in the region of Languedoc & Roussillon.  High on a hilltop is perched the older, Cite de Carcassonne, a fairy-tale-like castle, settled as far back as the sixth century BC by Romans and now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Below the Cite lies the ville of Carcassonne, a bastide and beautiful walled city in its own right.

Carcassonne’s lively energy is evident in the many colorful cafes and bistros that crowd its place, or plaza. Lured by the smell of intoxicating spices from a tiny Moroccan restaurant that was closed, we curiously peered through the window to see bright orange walls and about four small tables. The owner, Nibil, noticed us and enthusiastically invited us in through the back door. Once inside, he introduced us to his wife, the chef, who creates all the Moroccan dishes with fresh ingredients daily. Excited to share his love of food and people with us and as a sign of friendship, he offered us a small glass of Moroccan white wine. We promised to return for dinner one night this week. Meeting the real people who live here and getting the behind-the-scene tours is what life is all about. I’ll take lots of photos!

These photos are a snapshot of this pretty ville.

The Good Vibe Cafe
Have a seat.
Gorgeous tilework!

The markets are closed today and tomorrow for a holiday so I can’t get my fix until Tuesday. More on food and the fabulous dinner we had last night later…

Au Revoir!

Mary

Journeys

Posted on May 23, 2012May 13, 2024 by Mary
Three new garden boxes.
Ready for summer veggies!

As I begin this blog, I am reminded of many of my life’s journeys that have led me to this present moment in time. My dream is to write about food, share recipes, and get to the heart and soul of the impact food has on our lives. Food drives memories, and cooking is a way to show our love. So how has food influenced your life? Food has always been a part of my “journeys” dictating travels, social events, even friendships. Today, I share my youthful new garden and will follow its journey of growth. Weekly, I will document its maturity and create recipes which highlight each vegetable’s unique spirit. I know I will be surprised by its abundance of green when I return in three weeks. Until then, on to Southern France to savor the flavors!

Au Revoir!

Mary

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About Mary Knight

Ciao! I’m Mary, a chef with a heart full of French flair, an explorer of the world, a history buff, and a green-thumbed gardener. My love for food, its origins, all things Europe, and the legendary Julia Child has led me to exciting adventures and delicious discoveries. Travel tugs at my heart, leading me to new places to indulge in local delights, explore ancient sites, and learn of secret spots and recipes from the locals.

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